The trade ambulante – In our country, 26 million attend the stands, always been a place of social relations. And today even multiculturalism workshop: 53% of the exercises is to non-EU ownership. The evolution? futuristic buildings with the kitchen of the “star” chef
“Vo in the square and all the angles, and then volgomi / along the loggia, looking for treccole, / thenceforth the castle, and grocers / vo wondering s’hanno quail or doves. “
Par to see, at the dawn of the ’500, the servant Corbolo wandering among the stalls of a market Ferrarese, in search of goodies for her demanding boss. At the time of Ludovico Ariosto, who wrote these verses, quails and turtle doves are served roasted with plentiful side dishes of seasonal vegetables, and treccole were the sellers who on their stalls exhibiting vegetables, fruit, game and even stuffed pasta, omelettes with cheese, stewed eels, pork chops scented with rosemary. The market was the heart of city life and changed the physiognomy of squares and streets, creating a new, ephemeral but recognizable urban architecture made of wooden benches, bunks, simple carts, tents. Went from there the retail trade and information flow, bouncing between eggs, poultry, textiles and footwear, and then spread to the countryside. And treccola was the queen of the market, the cornerstone of a system today still hooked to a tradition that has withstood the test of time, evolving into something more structured and complex.
an established ritual
Five centuries after Ariosto, the market-system is experiencing new dynamics to invoke a fatally attracted the public, albeit not totally distracted from the most contemporary commercial enticements . It remains stationary, steel, the starting point that decreed the fortune of the country: beyond the push to buy, always marked by a logic of convenience or comfort, “go to market” today is synonymous with meeting with ‘ other – friend, relative or acquaintance of the condominium or neighborhood -, exchange of experiences, personal and direct relationship between buyer and seller, certainly freer and more trust than other forms of distribution.
“our field research – confirms Armando Zelli, general secretary of Fiva Confcommercio, the federation of street vendors who collect 50 000 registered – clearly indicate that socialization is a major factor that drives people to attend a market , especially in small towns or in the outlying city districts, where the setting is periodic and represents a sort of fixture to mark the agenda of the habits. ” “In Italy – adds Adriano Ciolli, of coordinator Anva Confesercenti, with over 45,000 subscribers – 67% of the population claims to appreciate the benches for the assortment of goods and their convenience, but also as a new form of social agora “.
We are struggling, to quote Marc Augé, of a” anthropological place “that retains the characteristic of being identity, relational and historical, as opposed to supermarkets and shopping centers,” no places “where millions of people cross each other without entering into a relationship. general rule, this, that applies even in the presence of different street types of market size and width: change the structure and texture, but not the customer photograph, which, according to recent research, belong to all social classes and include all ages. At the market, at least once a week, ranging 26 million consumers, and if you have wondered why, in the pre-election tour, applicants do not miss a tour through the stalls, the answer is right in this opportunity to meet and feel the pulse in many Italie different. Today in our country the trade ambulante companies are more than 190,000, often family-run, with 450,000 employees, rarely permanent employees. Their numbers started to grow again after a period of contraction culminated in 1999, thanks to the entry in the field of ownership of non-EU companies (now 53% of the total, an increase of 32% compared to 2011). Only in provincial capitals daily markets in 1200, to which must be added the more than 8,000 periodicals markets throughout the area: “The ubiquity of the spread – supports Ciolli – is one of one of the characteristics that differentiate our system compared to other European countries “.
THE CARD
ARE OVER 450 tHOUSAND WORKERS IN THE 190 tHOUSAND TRADING COMPANIES WALKING IN OUR COUNTRY, oFTEN FAMILY. RARELY IS THEIR NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES FISSI.M RESUMED TO GROW AFTER A PERIOD OF CONTRACTION culminated in 1999 THANKS TO ENTRY IN THIS FIELD OF BUSINESS OWNERSHIP A ‘NON-MEMBER COUNTRY.
In Milan, the markets are a hundred, ranging from the smallest (Fiamminghino and Rogoredo, each with just over thirty stalls), to real giants like Papinian, Benedetto Marcello, Moretto da Brescia, exceeding abundantly 200 stations. “In these cases – adds Zelli – the neighborhood customers are added occasional visitors, lured by an offer varied merchandise, or tourists who want to get in touch with a more real, outside the official circuit.” In Rome, market synonyms are Porta Portese (Sunday, thousands of workers, “here is de everything from pill a Jumbo jet”) and Campo de ‘Fiori, one of the oldest in the capital. But we should not forget the microcosm of the many local markets scattered throughout the city, a Roman journalist, Chiara Ugolini, lists in curious and knowledgeable website (mercatidiroma.com), and that an association (historical Markets rionali) aims to how to preserve the historical heritage of the city and places of urban regeneration.
With the gastronomy “signed”
the evolution of species is represented by glass and concrete structures of the Triumphal Arch and Testaccio markets (where he opened a catering counter the starry chef Cristina Bowerman), and constant technological improvement that has led these areas to be not only pleasant, beautiful to attend, but also efficient and organized, with an eye to tradition and culture expressed by the territory. In Bologna, for example, it is going to revive the old covered market of San Donato, with the ambitious project of “Punch Drunk Market” which aims to combine music and products at zero kilometers. Even in Bari is no air of novelty, with the arrival of the branded market Eataly: artisans, farmers and ranchers will exhibit goods and foods at a rate of ten small businesses a month, a showcase of local products of the South. But Warns Ciolla: “from Germany we imported the idea of green market and well-being, even by us, the so-called farm markets. Provided that sell real products of the territory and not, as sometimes happens, bananas and pineapple. “
A great rise in the sector is that of fairs and festivals, events of limited duration that combine tradition (think of the Oh bej oh bej in Milan) to the extraordinary event (see the Christmas markets in Trentino-Alto Adige, that attract 700,000 visitors a year). There are about 5000, and all of success: the risk that we run, paradoxically, is an excess of supply, with respect to the potential of the area and the economic difficulties in household spending.
But there of course, on the flip side, the associations identified in the disconnect between the realities of the country: “Especially in the South – Report Zelli – we are paying a disaffection of customers, the product offer unbalancing effect which penalizes groceries compared to other products such as apparel and jeanswear, often of questionable quality. ” And then there is the plague of unauthorized recently brought to light by a Anva dossier, according to which you would count 15 irregular workers per 100 regular, and in some regions (see Campania) even 30. a negative boom, said the dossier, which subtracts an annual turnover of 1.8 billion Euros, corresponding to a loss of tax and contribution revenues estimated at 770 million. The problem is serious and must be curbed: serve, suggests Anva, greater transparency of business registers, a new control strategy and the cultural awareness of consumers about the damage caused by unauthorized. After all, they say trade associations, would be enough to follow the golden rules that have built the fortune of the street market: convenience and quality, environment and social relations, buyer-seller relationship and variety of goods. Recalling that the customer is always right, even when the search will not be successful as in the case of our familiar Corbolo, hunting for quails and turtle doves for the table of his master:
“Nothing it truovo: some piccion veggovi / you lean, you light that pareano / quart that a year had avessino. “
it seems to hear the response of the grocer, smart and proactive as it should be a true itinerant street:
“Well, for today is over. Come back in a week, and will find it. “
@CorriereSociale
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