Buyer: “Vince’s identity” – Pambianconews

         

          February 8, 2016

     

For the coming winter season there are no well defined trends. The label should seek more and more, to affirm their own stories and specificity.

The eye of buyers is constantly moving, always ready to discover new brands and talents, to observe the latest trends and find out when the trends are not there. Male ones, in fact, for the next 2016-17 autumn / winter, are not well defined. And, just this lack of common-factor, it seems the predominant phenomenon. During Pitti Immagine 89 , which jumped out of the industry professionals is that "compared to other years, this season there is a real thread that is common to most brand - told Pambianco Magazine Maurizio Purified , co founder of the boutique Antonia and creative director of Excelsior - . What is happening, however, is the tendency of each brand to establish itself with its own style and its own identity, beyond the dictates of fashion. " A strategy that many companies are starting to implement: the trends are no longer an incontrovertible law which must serve as proof of having a response from the public. It seems, more than anything else, that today the success is achieved by giving voice to the intrinsic characteristics of a brand and enhancing them. Also Rosy Biffi , owner of the eponymous group, has the same idea: "It is impossible to list all the trends for the coming winter season: it is a too wide range which, however, will give way to each brand to compose a personal collection and in line with its own identity, without distorting it. You notice, beyond the trend, the return of fundamental values ​​such as quality, comfort and style. "

The fashion, is nothing new, it is in constant ferment. Change is a constant and today, in the era of social networks, is on the agenda. The landscape is constantly changing and to keep up you need to be constantly updated. In the future, what will make the difference will be the creative idea. "It is increasingly clear - he told Pambianco Magazine Vinicio Ravagnani , owner of the concept store Vinicio - as the idea and the fact today accounts who has something to say. In recent years there have been huge phenomenon in fashion, and only because behind a mark there was a concept. " Purified is on the same wavelength: "The trend in the future will be to create a great expectation around a special event to make sure that this will translate into strong sales. This fact is already happening with the capsule collection: for example, we have seen the public unrest, and the subsequent results, the Yeezy Boost Adidas Originals designed by Kanye West . In the future, even the same buyers will cooperate with the jaws to create successful capsules ". According to Mario Dell'Oglio , president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion Buyers , you're going to outline two records: "On the one hand there will be products with an innovative style, on the other models that are design and good workmanship, in addition to bringing in the Serbian ideas. " And with respect to the future of professional buyers, open different scenarios. Purified going to outline for you

two figures: "There will be differentiated buying, one for online and one for offline. The big brands, today, are different budgets: we Antonia we started with the online for six months, and the investment ratio is 70% to 30% for the offline and online. " According Ravagnani, "the buyer today must be more technological and informed and must know how to work in teams. You can no longer think like a tennis player, but we must work as a football team: my own company today is very structured, it is no longer a single buyer, but a team that works together for one purpose. " For Dell'Oglio, the role of the buyers is becoming increasingly central. In addition to being a style filter "has the ability to mix jaws with different characteristics: the consumer is and always will be more stimulated by a multi-brand characterized by a good mix." When talking about social networks, some argue are a driver of choice for the sale of a product, those who recognize the value as a monitoring tool and who does not consider them much useful for positioning. The ideas seem confused or, at least, there are several issues to be considered: "Surely they are an important tool to keep an eye on what happens in the world - said Dell'Oglio - but they are conscious of the fact that sales and eg , Instagram are traveling on two different tracks. It is easy and straightforward to put a like a picture, but it does not mean that those same people are ready to buy: it is an important dynamic, but it is virtual and not concrete. " On the other side there Ravagnani: "Social networks, as well as blogs, I am a driver of choice: they can make a company's success. I myself, by using them, and I've known brands made known. When inaugurate my new store in Novara, I will invite other bloggers because they refer to a refined public and personal style. " For purified, however, it depends on the positioning: "They create a return to buying level for brands that are positioned in the segment of young, not for high-end labels such as those found by Antonia. They refer, in fact, at an average young consumer who usually does not have much purchasing power. " Biffi , on the other hand, defines them as "a useful and immediate tool to inform and be informed, to instantly interact with users and customers. Instagram has a further function of image and lifestyle, while Facebook comes in a more direct and conversational in connection with the public. "

Letizia Redaelli